The souq

Definition of souq:  a commercial quarter in an Arab or Berber city.  The term is often used to designate the market in any Arabized or Muslim city.  Historically, souqs were held outside of cities in the location where a caravan loaded with goods would stop and merchants would display their goods for sale.

I’ve mentioned the souqs a few times in my blog entries, but never really described what they were.  For me, the souq is one of the best places to visit in an Arab city.  Souq Waqif is my favorite souq in Qatar.  Souq Waqif is one of the main souqs in Qatar and is conveniently located close to my office, nearly a ten minute walk.  Souq Waqif is more of a standing market because it is permanent and opens twice daily- once in the morning and once in the evening, with a break in between for lunch and rest.  At Souq Waqif you can find anything you can imagine- scarves, jewelry, a wide variety of food and coffee, sheesha, crafts, souvenirs, traditional garments, home goods, pet shops, and the list goes on.

A usual evening in the souq for me consists of sheesha, juices, and bargain shopping.  I really enjoy going to the souq, drinking a freshly made lemon and mint juice with shaved ice, and smoking a sheesha while sitting outside and watching the world go by.  It is the one place where you really get a feel for the culture in Qatar and the wide variety of people that make up the population.  From traditional dress to disrespectful tourists in tank tops, the souq draws a large crowd until about midnight each night.  Most of the Arab children have had naps during the afternoon and stay up until midnight on weeknights, running through the souq and enjoying the aroma of spices and freshly made meals.  After relaxing at a sidewalk table for a while, I will usual take 200 Qatari Riyals (about $56 dollars) and walk through the souq.  As you walk through the twisting turns and shady walkways, vendors invite you to come in and taste their products or feel their silk scarves.  Shop owners are happy to let you try whatever they have to offer.  When you see something you like, ask how much, divide by two and then ask if they will take whatever that amount is.  After a few minutes of negotiation- they will usually come down to your price.

One thing that I have come to know in the souq is when you find a store you like- REMEMBER where it is.  Take note of the surroundings- otherwise you will never find the place again.  Store names do not really exist- so location is key.  One of the most famous places in the souq is the falcon shop.  People are always talking about the place, but no one can ever seem to find it.  Well I found it! (not on my own of course)  Falcons are well respected in Qatar and falconry is associated in Arab cultures with nobility and wealth.  The falcon shop has everything you need for your pet falcon- from the falcon to the leather hood that it wears.  They have even let me hold a falcon!  As scared as I was- it was pretty neat.

I could go on forever about explorations in the souq, but the list would never end.  The souq has so much to offer and the experience that you get from it, really depends on what you make of it.  If anyone ever actually comes to visit me, this will for sure be one of the places I take you.