The city that never sleeps.

Last weekend, I did something that I had never even dreamed of doing.  I flew to Beirut, Lebanon for the weekend.  To put it simple, it was amazing.


One of my friends in Doha had already planned the trip to meet up with one of her friends from home (a Lebanese Australian) - so I decided to join, why not?  We left Thursday after work, remember Fridays & Saturdays are my weekends here.  Flying from Doha on Middle East airlines was a first for me...not as great as the other airlines that I have flown in the region, but not awful.  After a three hour flight beside an Arab man who couldn't speak English but communicated with me by offering me peanuts, we arrived in Lebanon.  As the plane descended to the ground, I glanced out the window to see shiny lights twinkling across the mountainous land.  Though I was taken aside and given a lengthy questioning for being an American entering Lebanon, I was able to enter the country.


Our first 'tourist' experience was trying to figure out the conversion from Lebanese pounds to a currency we knew...USD or Qatari Riyals.  After making a bank transaction that resulted in the withdraw of $13.50, we finally figured out that 1500 Lebanese pounds equals 1 US dollar. 


Catching a cab to the hotel, we quickly discovered that driving in Lebanon was much worse than Qatar.  Speeding through tunnels, running red lights, and going down one way streets the wrong way, our cab driver delivered us safely to our hotel - if you can call that safe.


Soon we found out that we had been upgraded from a regular room to an executive suit with a full kitchen, living room, and washer dryer.  After a quick freshing up, we were out the door and off to dinner (at 11pm).  We caught a cab and went to one of the streets downtown that offers a variety of Lebanese culture.  From french bistros with warm lights and arched doorways to small terrace bars with live music and DJs, the street offered something to everyone.  This night was my first introduction to the beggars of Lebanon.  They are everywhere, and whats worse is they are small boys around the age of 9 or 10.  They roam around the streets trying to sell flower necklaces, roses, or even just crying in hopes for your small change in return.  Being an American citizen, it was slightly easier for me to turn away than it was for my Australian friends.  (We as Americans seem to be unaffected by this to a certain extent, since we see it in almost every metropolitan area)


Later that night (around 1am, after dinner), we went to some of the 'must see' bars downtown.  It wasn't long before I realized at every bar I went to, I was the only blonde in attendance.  (I dont know if that was a good or bad thing) The nightlife in Lebanon is extreme.  Parties every night until 7am....weekend and weekday.  I don't know how those people do it.


The next day, we rented a taxi for the day and went to Jeita Grotto.  (Two separate limestone  caves that stretch over 5 miles under the Jeita Valley in Lebanon.)  The grotto houses the worlds tallest stalactite - about 400 ft tall.  We walked through the upper cave and then took a small boat through the lower cave.   After leaving the caves, we went to the Telefrique, which are these cable cars that take you from the coast of Lebanon to the lower mountains for an amazing view of the middle part of the country....only one problem, when we got to the top- a huge cloud stood between us and the view below.  Not so great for photos...

Jeita Grotto - Lebanon

After a long day of sightseeing, we came back to the hotel, napped, showered and were ready for the night's adventures.  Although we were tempted to eat sushi, this night we went to one of the best Lebanese restaurants in Beirut.  How could we go to Lebanon without eating Lebanese?  After a great dinner of assorted mezzah, grilled meats, sheesha, and sweet arabic desserts - we were ready for yet another night of what Beruit is famous for - party.  And boy did we do it, after leaving one bar at 4am, we went to a parking lot in the industrial area of the city.  In the middle of a flat parking deck, you see lights coming from the ground and hear music echoing from the pavement below.  We were at B018 (www.b018.com).  This bar, was one of the coolest bars that I have ever been to.  (I guess it was more of a 'club' than a 'bar' really)  The bar is set in the middle of a parking lot with stairs leading down to it.  The tin rooftop opens up and the bar is open to the stars above.  Dancing until 7am, this bar is loved by all in Beirut.  It's famous for it's 'after parties'....meaning anything after 3:30am.


The next day, though tired and lazy, we made ourselves get up, walk around the city, and go to the beach club.  And ohhh the beach club.....more plastic surgery than Miami (I read that on a travel site, but it is sooo true)  Walking through the city, you can feel the violent past and possible present.  Soldiers with guns are at guard on every block, army tanks are visible every half mile, and army camps are set up through the city.   You can definitely feel the hostility in the air...a sense of waiting for something to happen... but you also feel safe knowing that the country has provided enough guard to scare off most violence.  (or at least you hope) The plush green trees, bright flowers, and friendly people seem to overcome your fear and welcome you to the country.

Lebanon is a really beautiful country and Beirut is a really fun city, full of character.  One of my favorite things about the country was being able to see the mountains from the beach.  And all across the mountains, houses lit up the land like twinkling lights sprinkled across the land.  At twilight, the country really felt magical.  I am so glad that I had the opportunity to visit and though the trip was exhausting, I hope it will not be my last time seeing the country. There's something about the place that draws you to it - something special for sure.