The souq

Definition of souq:  a commercial quarter in an Arab or Berber city.  The term is often used to designate the market in any Arabized or Muslim city.  Historically, souqs were held outside of cities in the location where a caravan loaded with goods would stop and merchants would display their goods for sale.

I’ve mentioned the souqs a few times in my blog entries, but never really described what they were.  For me, the souq is one of the best places to visit in an Arab city.  Souq Waqif is my favorite souq in Qatar.  Souq Waqif is one of the main souqs in Qatar and is conveniently located close to my office, nearly a ten minute walk.  Souq Waqif is more of a standing market because it is permanent and opens twice daily- once in the morning and once in the evening, with a break in between for lunch and rest.  At Souq Waqif you can find anything you can imagine- scarves, jewelry, a wide variety of food and coffee, sheesha, crafts, souvenirs, traditional garments, home goods, pet shops, and the list goes on.

A usual evening in the souq for me consists of sheesha, juices, and bargain shopping.  I really enjoy going to the souq, drinking a freshly made lemon and mint juice with shaved ice, and smoking a sheesha while sitting outside and watching the world go by.  It is the one place where you really get a feel for the culture in Qatar and the wide variety of people that make up the population.  From traditional dress to disrespectful tourists in tank tops, the souq draws a large crowd until about midnight each night.  Most of the Arab children have had naps during the afternoon and stay up until midnight on weeknights, running through the souq and enjoying the aroma of spices and freshly made meals.  After relaxing at a sidewalk table for a while, I will usual take 200 Qatari Riyals (about $56 dollars) and walk through the souq.  As you walk through the twisting turns and shady walkways, vendors invite you to come in and taste their products or feel their silk scarves.  Shop owners are happy to let you try whatever they have to offer.  When you see something you like, ask how much, divide by two and then ask if they will take whatever that amount is.  After a few minutes of negotiation- they will usually come down to your price.

One thing that I have come to know in the souq is when you find a store you like- REMEMBER where it is.  Take note of the surroundings- otherwise you will never find the place again.  Store names do not really exist- so location is key.  One of the most famous places in the souq is the falcon shop.  People are always talking about the place, but no one can ever seem to find it.  Well I found it! (not on my own of course)  Falcons are well respected in Qatar and falconry is associated in Arab cultures with nobility and wealth.  The falcon shop has everything you need for your pet falcon- from the falcon to the leather hood that it wears.  They have even let me hold a falcon!  As scared as I was- it was pretty neat.

I could go on forever about explorations in the souq, but the list would never end.  The souq has so much to offer and the experience that you get from it, really depends on what you make of it.  If anyone ever actually comes to visit me, this will for sure be one of the places I take you.

The city that never sleeps.

Last weekend, I did something that I had never even dreamed of doing.  I flew to Beirut, Lebanon for the weekend.  To put it simple, it was amazing.


One of my friends in Doha had already planned the trip to meet up with one of her friends from home (a Lebanese Australian) - so I decided to join, why not?  We left Thursday after work, remember Fridays & Saturdays are my weekends here.  Flying from Doha on Middle East airlines was a first for me...not as great as the other airlines that I have flown in the region, but not awful.  After a three hour flight beside an Arab man who couldn't speak English but communicated with me by offering me peanuts, we arrived in Lebanon.  As the plane descended to the ground, I glanced out the window to see shiny lights twinkling across the mountainous land.  Though I was taken aside and given a lengthy questioning for being an American entering Lebanon, I was able to enter the country.


Our first 'tourist' experience was trying to figure out the conversion from Lebanese pounds to a currency we knew...USD or Qatari Riyals.  After making a bank transaction that resulted in the withdraw of $13.50, we finally figured out that 1500 Lebanese pounds equals 1 US dollar. 


Catching a cab to the hotel, we quickly discovered that driving in Lebanon was much worse than Qatar.  Speeding through tunnels, running red lights, and going down one way streets the wrong way, our cab driver delivered us safely to our hotel - if you can call that safe.


Soon we found out that we had been upgraded from a regular room to an executive suit with a full kitchen, living room, and washer dryer.  After a quick freshing up, we were out the door and off to dinner (at 11pm).  We caught a cab and went to one of the streets downtown that offers a variety of Lebanese culture.  From french bistros with warm lights and arched doorways to small terrace bars with live music and DJs, the street offered something to everyone.  This night was my first introduction to the beggars of Lebanon.  They are everywhere, and whats worse is they are small boys around the age of 9 or 10.  They roam around the streets trying to sell flower necklaces, roses, or even just crying in hopes for your small change in return.  Being an American citizen, it was slightly easier for me to turn away than it was for my Australian friends.  (We as Americans seem to be unaffected by this to a certain extent, since we see it in almost every metropolitan area)


Later that night (around 1am, after dinner), we went to some of the 'must see' bars downtown.  It wasn't long before I realized at every bar I went to, I was the only blonde in attendance.  (I dont know if that was a good or bad thing) The nightlife in Lebanon is extreme.  Parties every night until 7am....weekend and weekday.  I don't know how those people do it.


The next day, we rented a taxi for the day and went to Jeita Grotto.  (Two separate limestone  caves that stretch over 5 miles under the Jeita Valley in Lebanon.)  The grotto houses the worlds tallest stalactite - about 400 ft tall.  We walked through the upper cave and then took a small boat through the lower cave.   After leaving the caves, we went to the Telefrique, which are these cable cars that take you from the coast of Lebanon to the lower mountains for an amazing view of the middle part of the country....only one problem, when we got to the top- a huge cloud stood between us and the view below.  Not so great for photos...

Jeita Grotto - Lebanon

After a long day of sightseeing, we came back to the hotel, napped, showered and were ready for the night's adventures.  Although we were tempted to eat sushi, this night we went to one of the best Lebanese restaurants in Beirut.  How could we go to Lebanon without eating Lebanese?  After a great dinner of assorted mezzah, grilled meats, sheesha, and sweet arabic desserts - we were ready for yet another night of what Beruit is famous for - party.  And boy did we do it, after leaving one bar at 4am, we went to a parking lot in the industrial area of the city.  In the middle of a flat parking deck, you see lights coming from the ground and hear music echoing from the pavement below.  We were at B018 (www.b018.com).  This bar, was one of the coolest bars that I have ever been to.  (I guess it was more of a 'club' than a 'bar' really)  The bar is set in the middle of a parking lot with stairs leading down to it.  The tin rooftop opens up and the bar is open to the stars above.  Dancing until 7am, this bar is loved by all in Beirut.  It's famous for it's 'after parties'....meaning anything after 3:30am.


The next day, though tired and lazy, we made ourselves get up, walk around the city, and go to the beach club.  And ohhh the beach club.....more plastic surgery than Miami (I read that on a travel site, but it is sooo true)  Walking through the city, you can feel the violent past and possible present.  Soldiers with guns are at guard on every block, army tanks are visible every half mile, and army camps are set up through the city.   You can definitely feel the hostility in the air...a sense of waiting for something to happen... but you also feel safe knowing that the country has provided enough guard to scare off most violence.  (or at least you hope) The plush green trees, bright flowers, and friendly people seem to overcome your fear and welcome you to the country.

Lebanon is a really beautiful country and Beirut is a really fun city, full of character.  One of my favorite things about the country was being able to see the mountains from the beach.  And all across the mountains, houses lit up the land like twinkling lights sprinkled across the land.  At twilight, the country really felt magical.  I am so glad that I had the opportunity to visit and though the trip was exhausting, I hope it will not be my last time seeing the country. There's something about the place that draws you to it - something special for sure.

Ever been to a camel race? I have.

Last weekend, I did something that I had been wanting to do since my first weekend in Qatar- I went to a camel race. 


Camel races in Qatar are held every Saturday, twice a day.  Once at 5am and then again at 3pm.  I don't have to tell you which time I attended.  The races take place outside of Doha and are not widely advertised in the city.  Many Qataris actually look down upon it.  When you first get to the race track, if you've never been before, it is really confusing as to what to do.  We were lucky enough to find an empty bus in the parking lot with some other 'westerners' in it- so we jumped in.  The bus was small, holding about 15 people.  It drove us around to the track. 


The track itself is about 6 miles long and dirt with metal railings on both sides to keep the camels in.  Outside of the dirt track, there are three pavement tracks that follow along the camels' track.  Two on one side for spectators to drive along and one on the other side for the owners to control their camels, while driving beside them.  Viewers and owners drive along in their large, white Land Rovers and follow the camels as they race.


Until recently the camels were ridden around the track by small orphan(or kidnapped) children controlling them- that has now, thank goodness, been banned.  The replacement jockey is a small robot that hooks onto the saddle of the camel.  It has a whip attached to it that is controlled by a remote that the owner has on the side of the track.  Depending on how fast the camel is running, the owner will speed up or slow down the whip.

The start of the race, before the camels are released.

And they're off!

The race begins when the gate is lifted.  Oversized cars rev their engines and screech their tires.  Our bus was off before we knew it.  Yala yala yala!  (Go, Fast, Hurry)  

For six miles we followed the camels as they galloped around the track.  If you see in the pictures above, the lane to the right was where the owners followed and controlled their camel's whip by remote.  Meanwhile our bus radio station was tuned into the announcer for the race, who yelled in Arabic as different camels took the lead.

At the end of the 6m race, the exhausted camels fight for the finish.  The winners are then taken to the side for photos with their owners and another race with a new set of camels begins almost immediately.  

After riding around the track on the bus for two races, we finally got off the bus and watched from the side lines of the start/finish. This was an experience that I will never forget.  I am not sure that I approve of the camel races and the whipping robots, but I think it is an interesting part of the culture and is something that everyone should see.

Oh- I was one of the only females in attendance at the race.  Not only was that uncomfortable, but as we had been to the beach earlier that morning, I forgot to pack leggings to go under my beach dress.  So here I was at the race, with an above-the knee dress and all men.  It was not what you would call appropriate, but I had driven all the way out to the track and didn't want to just sit in the car, while others watched the race.  I was also with all men- not sure that looked so good.  Unfortunately, let's just say the camels weren't the only ones getting attention at the race track that day.