Celebrating a dream.

Last Thursday, the FIFA committee announced something that many thought was just a dream- Qatar won the rights to host the 2022 FIFA World Cup!

 As a resident of Qatar, I have been a victim of the marketing campaign that has plastered the country with posters, billboards, car stickers, and soccer balls over the last year. Since I have arrived, the slogan ‘Expect Amazing’ (the marketing phrase for Qatar’s bid) has been engraved in my mind. If you check out the bid, you will agree, Qatar is promising an ‘amazing’ event. Their website: http://www.qatar2022bid.com/
 

Though their promise was like a dream, many of us felt that Qatar would not be chosen because of one key factor- the summer heat. How will the players survive games in the 130 degrees F summer? Well, air-conditioned stadiums of course. Last Thursday, the citizens of Qatar waited anxiously for the evening announcement. Crowds gathered in the main souq, the bay area, and around the Khalifa stadium. I was sitting in my apartment with the windows open when I heard it- an explosion of car horns and voices. I knew immediately that Qatar had won the bid and the 2022 World Cup will be a significant part of Arab history. It will be the first World Cup to be hosted in a Muslim, Middle Eastern, and Arab country.

 Maybe you’re curious as to how the Arabs celebrate without that beverage that we all know and love. Do not worry, they celebrate plenty without it. Immediately after the announcement, cars flooded the bay area of the capital city, Doha. Qatari nationals were standing on the tops of their cars and shooting silly string as they paraded through the city. Small fireworks were being set off from every 1 out of 3 vehicles. Horns blowing, loud cheering, tears of happieness, and flags flying started at 6:30pm and lasted for the next three days.

 

Almost one week after the announcement, citizens across the country have plastered their cars with pictures of the Emir holding the FIFA bid award. Some have even spray painted their cars with ‘Qatar 2022’. I don’t have to tell you that this is a HUGE deal here. I have never seen the people of Qatar so happy and full of excitement…but then again I have never been here for Qatar National Day, which is coming up very soon. 

 I am happy for Qatar. I don’t plan on staying here until 2022, but I would love to come back and see the result of this promise of 50 billion dollars to create the most amazing World Cup ever.

Qatar 2022.

Shisha, for the socially elite.

Do you remember the caterpillar in Alice & Wonderland?  Ever wonder what that chubby blue creature was puffing on?  Shisha.  Also known as, hookah, hubbly bubbly, nargeela...It is also one of the most common social activities in the Arab world.  Shisha, which comes from a Persian word meaning 'glass' is the commonly used term in coutries around the Persian Gulf, including Qatar and Egypt.

In Qatar, smoking shisha is very popular and is done by the in many public places.  It is relaxing and a great way to enjoy time with friends and family, while simply watching the world pass by. 

The pipe or apparatus that is used during this activity is known locally as the shisha.  Shisha's can range from very plain and simple to vases decorated with gold and diamonds.  The bottom of the device usually has a glass vase, to be filled with water, and then a metal piece at the top that hooks to a long pipe with a mouthpiece.  This allows for the smoke to be filtered through the water before it is inhaled.  The pipe is usually long and flexible so that it can reach further distances.  At the top of the metal piece, the tobacco is placed in a small clay bowl with filter holes in the bottom of it and covered in aluminum foil.  Hot coals are then placed on top of the punctured foil and 'start the fire' to the whole process.  Confused yet?  Take a look at the picture below to see what I am talking about.

 Many restaurants and coffee shops in Arab countries offer shisha.  In Qatar, the Souq Waqif is one of the most popular places to gather as a group and smoke shisha.  As you walk through the winding cobblestone path in the souq, you will see people sitting at tables all along the sides smoking shisha, laughing, and spending time with friends.  I really enjoy the smell that comes from the burning shisha.  To me, its a reminder of where I am and the history of the country.  Smoking shisha has been a common past time in the Arab world for centuries and it still exist today.

There are also many different flavors of shisha to choose from- grape, strawberry, apple, mint, melon, coffee, watermelon, I have even seen Red Bull flavored shisha.  I would say that grape is the most popular among all of the flavors. 

I have discovered a shisha shop in Qatar that allows you to pick every piece that makes up the device. Color, size, material- they have it all.  I've been thinking about it for a while and last week, I finally went and bought one for myself.  My very own shisha.  It has a black porcelain bottom and a gunmetal gray steel top with a fancy deep red & leather pipe.  I must say, its very posh. I don't plan on smoking it regularly, but it is nice on special occasions.  I think it also makes a nice piece of decoration- don't judge me.

So when in Rome, I mean Qatar, why not do as the Qataris do? Try a shisha.

Testing out the medical facilities.

I am always so coordinated. Never spilling, dropping, or running into anything. People who know me often say, “Wow, Sarah- you are quite the master of coordination”. Okay, so now the people who know me are laughing…because I am not at all coordinated. If you can spill it- I’ll spill it. If you can break it- I will most likely break it. And if something is in the middle of my line of direction, I will probably not see it and run into it.

Now let’s talk about my butt. Yes, my butt.

It all happened on a Sunday night at approximately 6:14 pm, maybe 6:18- the night before my company’s biggest local marketing event for the year. I had worked almost one full year preparing for this event. About a month before the event, I became so stressed and crazy in my preparations that most people just chose to stay out of my way and let me focus. Back to Sunday night, I was running around at the hotel in which the event was being hosted, shouting commands to various people and moving equipment that would be on display at the event. I asked one of the guys to help me move one of the thirty heavy tables that the hotel had promised to move, but didn’t, when all of a sudden I brushed against another table. Immediately a numbing sensation went through my lower left side. I looked back to see a heavy wooden table, with a thick glass top- this was just like the other 29 hotel tables that need moving- only this one, was chipped at the corner. Chipped in a way that a sharp glass dagger protruded from the corner, calling to my butt as its prey for the evening.

At first, I didn’t know what had happened. I knew my pants were ripped but I wasn’t sure of the damage that was lying beneath. I immediately began walking as fast as I could across the 1200sqm ballroom to the bathroom on the other side. The bathroom mirror told the truth- I had just encountered a serious injury and it wasn’t pretty. Working with all men has its disadvantages, like not being able to show them my wound- especially in a country like Qatar.

After a quick phone call to reception, a hotel nurse soon came to take a look. She assessed my assets and confirmed- my next trip would be to the hospital.

The call to prayer

There is a lot of devotion in the Muslim religion. In fact, this devotion is shown five times a day during the call to prayer. Just like church bells ringing on a Sunday morning, the call to prayer echoes throughout the country five times a day on loud speakers that have been posted on every street corner, mosque, restaurant, shopping mall, and school. A loud, deep voice echoes over the country, chanting verses from the Holy Qur’an and a weird, silent blanket falls over everything else. For a Muslim, you are being summoned to stop whatever you are doing and worship your God- no matter where you are. For a non-Muslim, it can be disturbing and peaceful at the same time. For me, it’s a reminder of the world in which I live in.

The prayer intervals change each day depending on the sun. It begins at dawn and then repeats three times throughout the day, with the last one two hours after the sun has set. Most Muslims go to a mosque or prayer room during these times. However, if a Muslim is traveling and unable to reach a designated place of worship, he will first determine the location of Mecca and then roll out his prayer carpet and begin praying to Allah. In case you are driving during the call to prayer, it also takes over every radio station so that you can play it in your car. To be honest though, I don’t know how safe this is.

 When I first arrived in the country, the call to prayer really freaked me out. To be honest- it kind of scared me. After a month or so, you get used to it. Now I barely even notice when it is chanting in the background of a conversation that I may be having. Whether I hear it or not, the call to prayer is a huge reminder of the devotion that the Muslim people have to their religion. It makes them whole, tells them who they are, and gives them a reason for living. They worship in public and are not at all embarrassed to do so.

 Perhaps it is impossible for me to understand their religion, but it I would be blind if I said that I couldn’t see the devotion of Muslims.

The elevator boy

Every morning when I get to my office, I have someone waiting for me downstairs.  He is my elevator boy.  Well not really mine and he's not really the elevator boy; but he waits downstairs for me every morning and when he sees me, he runs as fast as he can (literally full sprint) to the elevator and pushes '4'.  (I work on the fourth floor of the building.)  He then holds the door until I reach him, gives me the loudest 'Hi Madam, how are you today?' greeting and up I go.  When I say loud, I mean his voice is so  loud that I think all eleven floors of the building can hear him.  Over the past eight months, since my arrival in Doha, I have come to look forward to this part of my morning every single day.  If he is not there in the morning, I feel a sense of sadness...like I just got broken up with or something.

Elevator boy is from Yemen.  I'm not really sure what his name is, how long he has lived in Qatar, or if he has family here- we haven't gotten that far in our relationship yet.  He is always clean and showered, which is quite rare here.  And he wears a blue jump suit, which is what all of the maintenance/cleaning boys in the building wear.

I am not the only one who loves him.  Everyone in my office talks about him too.  There are about fifteen maintenance boys in our building (this does not count tea boys) and he is the only one that we talk about.  He makes everyone smile and feel like they're special.  

Everyday elevator boy greets me at the beginning of the day and bids me farewell at the end of it.  He is also a frequent user of the 'thumbs up' gesture and uses it all of the time.

Last weekend, I went to a concert which was sponsored by a local phone service provider.  At the concert they gave out free t-shirts that were bright red, really soft, and said Vodafone across the front left pocket.  Since I always seem to carry the largest purse, friends kept stuffing these shirts in my bag.  This left me with several bright red, size L tees.  What to do?  I thought about it and decided I would take them to elevator boy Sunday morning.  Sunday morning came, I was walking into work and there he was waiting for me.  I told him I had a gift for him and brought out the bright red tees.  I didn't know if I was insulting him by offering him clothing, but he took them and said thank you maam.

I didnt see elevator boy for the remainder of the day.  I was quite busy running around at work, so it wasnt until the next afternoon that I saw him.  As I got in the elevator, stressed and thinking about the millions of things I had to do- in jumped elevator boy.  He pushed '4' and this time rode up with me.  He said, 'Thank you for the shirts maam.  You are the only American I have ever met and you are so nice. Very nice'.

I almost cried.  He really, really appreciated the gift and wasn't insulted at all.  I told him he was more than welcome and I was glad he enjoyed them.  (Even though they were size L and he is like an XS)

Even after I leave Qatar, elevator boy will forever be in my heart.  He is definately someone special and I am no better of a person than he is. 

Fourth floor, please.

It's all a process.

Take thirty seconds- close your eyes, breathe deeply, imagine a place where you feel calm, maybe even count to ten or twenty slowly.

This is a vital skill in Qatar- patience and staying calm.  I remind myself of this every single day.

Patience is key in a soceity where multiple language barriers exist and cultures and customs meet in one giant pot that hasn't yet been stirred.  There are about 1.6 million people living in Qatar and only about 260,000 of actual natives.  The rest of us join together in the country from all over the world to partake in the workforce of a rapidly growing economy.  It is the result of so many different types of people living in one small peninsula that makes some of the simplest things so difficult.

From ordering an appetizer at dinner to making a large business transaction- everything takes time and sometimes even multiple attempts before it is ever done right.  Life here is a process.  It is only after you learn that, that you can really acheive your goals.

Celebrating my first Eid

As an non-Muslim expat in a Muslim country, counting down until the end of Ramadan has quite a different meaning than it does to the average citizen.  For me, it meant counting down until the first Eid celebration.  During this Eid, muslims celebrate the end of their month long fast- Eid ul-Fitr.  The Eid celebration for me means- five day weekend and travel!  There are two of these Eid celebrations, one in September and one in November- both resulting in five day holiday weekends.  I learned very quickly that most expats take advantage of this time off to get away from the desert and travel to exotic places.  For those of you who thought Qatar was 'exotic'- you are sadly mistaken...Or if you're me, travel to Europe!  I'd never been to Europe so this Eid, I decided to travel to Germany-where cooler weather would greet me.

As an American on my first journey to Europe- you can imagine the first thing on my mind...fashion!  What do I wear?!  I started with a nice size duffle bag, small enough to carry-on to the plane and somehow managed to stuff it so full that it became the size of a must-check piece of luggage.

Hallo Deutschland!

Ramadan Kareem!

Guess who's back in Doha?  You guessed it, that little ole southern girl that loves sweet tea and pecan pie.  I'm back just in time for the annual, month long Islamic holiday- Ramadan. 

Ramadan occurs the ninth month of each Islamic year, which is slightly different from the calendar we know.  Its a lunar calendar which has about 355 days.  Ramadan is celebrated by a month of fasting- where Muslims restrain from drinking & eating from sunrise to sunset.  This hallmark month long fast is meant to increase individual patience, humility, and spirituality- giving Muslims time to reflect on their lives and cleanse their souls.  

This holiday is also enforced by the government of Qatar.  How does this effect me, you may ask?  Well it means that Muslim or not, I must respect and observe this holiday if I am going to reside in the country during its occurrence.  The Qatari government sets a mandate that from the beginning of Ramadan until the end of Ramadan (new moon to new moon), no employee should be required to work longer than six hours in a day.  Also, residents should not eat or drink in public between sunrise to sunset- this includes chewing gum in your car.   Restaurants are also closed during this time and open once the sun has set.  In the office, we must eat and drink in a private room of the building with the door closed.   Drinking water at your desk is prohibited as well as highly disrespectful.  So even though it is 120 degrees outside, do not be tempted to take a swig of water...you could be arrested.  

At night, once the sun has set, most Muslims partake in Iftar.  Which is bigger than a Thanksgiving feast- every day for one month....Imagine how much weight is gained....Thanksgiving everyday?  Iftar is held at almost every restaurant and is a huge buffet/ meal that breaks the fast each night.  I hope to attend at least one Iftar during this Ramadan.  I think it would be nice to simply experience it.

I must say, it is frightening being here during this month- constantly feeling like you have to watch yourself in order to not break any rule or be arrested.  Even clothing should be more conservative than conservative during this time.  However, I am glad I am getting to soak this in.  Experiencing a culture during their most sacred time of year is something that you don't get on a weekend vacation- its something that you are only able to take in when you are submerged in the community.

So yes, I am back in Doha.  Its Ramadan and its H-O-T.  Its also nearly 100% humidity.  I have mixed feelings right now as to if I am happy or sad to be back.  If you asked me now, tears would probably begin to roll down my cheeks.  I love my job and the experience that I am getting, but I also love home, friends, and family.  It was so nice to be in North Carolina this summer.  Enjoying mornings on my front porch with a coffee and watching the summer rain while rocking back and forth in my rocking chair...was hard to leave.  Now I have to look out my sandy window on the 27th floor and look down on construction sites and desert land.  Not the same.

But hey, Ramadan Kareem!  (Happy Ramadan)

Tobacco fields, mountain breeze, and sweet tea…I’m comin home.

Yes, that’s right.  I am coming home.  Not for good, but for a nice summer break from the heat.

My plane leaves Monday at 3:40am KSA (Sunday 8:40pm EST).  After a quick layover in London, I should arrive in North Carolina around 3pm EST on Monday.  My parents will be at the airport to pick me up and then we are going to eat some good ole NC bbq.  Mmmmm….I can taste it already. 

I am making you all aware of this, because I will probably stop blogging weekly while I am home.  I don’t think it would be so interesting- but hey, if something comes up that relates to the blog I will be sure to add an entry.

I spent all of last night packing up my stuff (one suitcase almost full of gifts).  It was a bittersweet feeling- exciting because I am coming home but somewhat sad because I feel that I am just now REALLY getting adjusted to life here and I am leaving, only to have to get re-adjusted when I return.  I am sure that feeling will go away once I get off the plane and see those familiar, loving faces.  I am really looking forward to spending the summer with the people that I care about the most and the activities that are non-existent in this region of the world.  All of these things I think I will appreciate so much more now that I have learned to live without them.

But….I think the desert will miss me. 

Girl, cover up those legs!

Have I told you about the dress for women in the Middle East?  I don’t think I have.

I’m sure you all know that the Arab women are dressed in black abayas.  An abaya is a long black cloak that covers the entire body except for the face, feet, and hands.  It is also worn with a niqab, which is the head covering.  Some of the head coverings show the entire face and just cover the hair, while others cover everything but the eyes, and some even cover the eyes with a sheer piece of black fabric.  The women sometimes decorate the abayas with sparkles or embroidered designs around the edges of the sleeves or niqabs.  I have even seen a few with fur cuffs!!  Now that’s just too fabulous.  I guess when that is all that you wear every single day, you have to spice it up somewhat.  Now do not go assuming that just because these women wear these black cloaks outside of the house (and even when they are swimming) that they don’t enjoy shopping, fashion, and designer clothing.  Under those dark, black veils these women are wearing designer jeans, designer tops, and the most expensive jewelry.  However, no one ever sees this clothing unless they are in the privacy of their own homes.  But, hey I would probably do the same if I had a lot of money and had to wear black every time I stepped foot outside of my own home.

Now, you may be thinking ‘What does Sarah wear?’.  An Abaya with the American flag printed as a border around the cuffs?  Nope.  But I do have to cover up.  Leggings, cardigans, and scarves.  No matter what the temperature- 120 degrees Fahrenheit- it still remains the same…leggings, cardigans, and scarves.  The leggings- if your dress is at all above your knees. (The challenge with these leggings is that not everything goes with black leggings.  I often feel like I just stepped out of an 80s aerobic video.)  The cardigans- if your showing too much shoulder.  The scarf- if your chest is in the least bit exposed.  I have bent the rules a little to fit to my comfort zone and theirs.  For example:  If I am going out at night I only wear the cardigan until I get inside the bar; I sometimes wear skirts that come slightly above the knee; and I most of the time skip the scarf.  (because let’s face it, there’s nothing to see there)

The one thing I have noticed has happened to me over the last four months is that when I do wear something a little short or show a little too much shoulder- I feel really, really uncomfortable. This doesn’t just happen when I am out in public but also happens when I am just around my friends in one of our houses- the need to cover up is still there.   I keep wondering if when put back into a non-Muslim setting if I will still feel uncomfortable OR if I will feel glorified to wear shorts in public again.  I guess I will find out shortly…

The souq

Definition of souq:  a commercial quarter in an Arab or Berber city.  The term is often used to designate the market in any Arabized or Muslim city.  Historically, souqs were held outside of cities in the location where a caravan loaded with goods would stop and merchants would display their goods for sale.

I’ve mentioned the souqs a few times in my blog entries, but never really described what they were.  For me, the souq is one of the best places to visit in an Arab city.  Souq Waqif is my favorite souq in Qatar.  Souq Waqif is one of the main souqs in Qatar and is conveniently located close to my office, nearly a ten minute walk.  Souq Waqif is more of a standing market because it is permanent and opens twice daily- once in the morning and once in the evening, with a break in between for lunch and rest.  At Souq Waqif you can find anything you can imagine- scarves, jewelry, a wide variety of food and coffee, sheesha, crafts, souvenirs, traditional garments, home goods, pet shops, and the list goes on.

A usual evening in the souq for me consists of sheesha, juices, and bargain shopping.  I really enjoy going to the souq, drinking a freshly made lemon and mint juice with shaved ice, and smoking a sheesha while sitting outside and watching the world go by.  It is the one place where you really get a feel for the culture in Qatar and the wide variety of people that make up the population.  From traditional dress to disrespectful tourists in tank tops, the souq draws a large crowd until about midnight each night.  Most of the Arab children have had naps during the afternoon and stay up until midnight on weeknights, running through the souq and enjoying the aroma of spices and freshly made meals.  After relaxing at a sidewalk table for a while, I will usual take 200 Qatari Riyals (about $56 dollars) and walk through the souq.  As you walk through the twisting turns and shady walkways, vendors invite you to come in and taste their products or feel their silk scarves.  Shop owners are happy to let you try whatever they have to offer.  When you see something you like, ask how much, divide by two and then ask if they will take whatever that amount is.  After a few minutes of negotiation- they will usually come down to your price.

One thing that I have come to know in the souq is when you find a store you like- REMEMBER where it is.  Take note of the surroundings- otherwise you will never find the place again.  Store names do not really exist- so location is key.  One of the most famous places in the souq is the falcon shop.  People are always talking about the place, but no one can ever seem to find it.  Well I found it! (not on my own of course)  Falcons are well respected in Qatar and falconry is associated in Arab cultures with nobility and wealth.  The falcon shop has everything you need for your pet falcon- from the falcon to the leather hood that it wears.  They have even let me hold a falcon!  As scared as I was- it was pretty neat.

I could go on forever about explorations in the souq, but the list would never end.  The souq has so much to offer and the experience that you get from it, really depends on what you make of it.  If anyone ever actually comes to visit me, this will for sure be one of the places I take you.

The city that never sleeps.

Last weekend, I did something that I had never even dreamed of doing.  I flew to Beirut, Lebanon for the weekend.  To put it simple, it was amazing.


One of my friends in Doha had already planned the trip to meet up with one of her friends from home (a Lebanese Australian) - so I decided to join, why not?  We left Thursday after work, remember Fridays & Saturdays are my weekends here.  Flying from Doha on Middle East airlines was a first for me...not as great as the other airlines that I have flown in the region, but not awful.  After a three hour flight beside an Arab man who couldn't speak English but communicated with me by offering me peanuts, we arrived in Lebanon.  As the plane descended to the ground, I glanced out the window to see shiny lights twinkling across the mountainous land.  Though I was taken aside and given a lengthy questioning for being an American entering Lebanon, I was able to enter the country.


Our first 'tourist' experience was trying to figure out the conversion from Lebanese pounds to a currency we knew...USD or Qatari Riyals.  After making a bank transaction that resulted in the withdraw of $13.50, we finally figured out that 1500 Lebanese pounds equals 1 US dollar. 


Catching a cab to the hotel, we quickly discovered that driving in Lebanon was much worse than Qatar.  Speeding through tunnels, running red lights, and going down one way streets the wrong way, our cab driver delivered us safely to our hotel - if you can call that safe.


Soon we found out that we had been upgraded from a regular room to an executive suit with a full kitchen, living room, and washer dryer.  After a quick freshing up, we were out the door and off to dinner (at 11pm).  We caught a cab and went to one of the streets downtown that offers a variety of Lebanese culture.  From french bistros with warm lights and arched doorways to small terrace bars with live music and DJs, the street offered something to everyone.  This night was my first introduction to the beggars of Lebanon.  They are everywhere, and whats worse is they are small boys around the age of 9 or 10.  They roam around the streets trying to sell flower necklaces, roses, or even just crying in hopes for your small change in return.  Being an American citizen, it was slightly easier for me to turn away than it was for my Australian friends.  (We as Americans seem to be unaffected by this to a certain extent, since we see it in almost every metropolitan area)


Later that night (around 1am, after dinner), we went to some of the 'must see' bars downtown.  It wasn't long before I realized at every bar I went to, I was the only blonde in attendance.  (I dont know if that was a good or bad thing) The nightlife in Lebanon is extreme.  Parties every night until 7am....weekend and weekday.  I don't know how those people do it.


The next day, we rented a taxi for the day and went to Jeita Grotto.  (Two separate limestone  caves that stretch over 5 miles under the Jeita Valley in Lebanon.)  The grotto houses the worlds tallest stalactite - about 400 ft tall.  We walked through the upper cave and then took a small boat through the lower cave.   After leaving the caves, we went to the Telefrique, which are these cable cars that take you from the coast of Lebanon to the lower mountains for an amazing view of the middle part of the country....only one problem, when we got to the top- a huge cloud stood between us and the view below.  Not so great for photos...

Jeita Grotto - Lebanon

After a long day of sightseeing, we came back to the hotel, napped, showered and were ready for the night's adventures.  Although we were tempted to eat sushi, this night we went to one of the best Lebanese restaurants in Beirut.  How could we go to Lebanon without eating Lebanese?  After a great dinner of assorted mezzah, grilled meats, sheesha, and sweet arabic desserts - we were ready for yet another night of what Beruit is famous for - party.  And boy did we do it, after leaving one bar at 4am, we went to a parking lot in the industrial area of the city.  In the middle of a flat parking deck, you see lights coming from the ground and hear music echoing from the pavement below.  We were at B018 (www.b018.com).  This bar, was one of the coolest bars that I have ever been to.  (I guess it was more of a 'club' than a 'bar' really)  The bar is set in the middle of a parking lot with stairs leading down to it.  The tin rooftop opens up and the bar is open to the stars above.  Dancing until 7am, this bar is loved by all in Beirut.  It's famous for it's 'after parties'....meaning anything after 3:30am.


The next day, though tired and lazy, we made ourselves get up, walk around the city, and go to the beach club.  And ohhh the beach club.....more plastic surgery than Miami (I read that on a travel site, but it is sooo true)  Walking through the city, you can feel the violent past and possible present.  Soldiers with guns are at guard on every block, army tanks are visible every half mile, and army camps are set up through the city.   You can definitely feel the hostility in the air...a sense of waiting for something to happen... but you also feel safe knowing that the country has provided enough guard to scare off most violence.  (or at least you hope) The plush green trees, bright flowers, and friendly people seem to overcome your fear and welcome you to the country.

Lebanon is a really beautiful country and Beirut is a really fun city, full of character.  One of my favorite things about the country was being able to see the mountains from the beach.  And all across the mountains, houses lit up the land like twinkling lights sprinkled across the land.  At twilight, the country really felt magical.  I am so glad that I had the opportunity to visit and though the trip was exhausting, I hope it will not be my last time seeing the country. There's something about the place that draws you to it - something special for sure.

Ever been to a camel race? I have.

Last weekend, I did something that I had been wanting to do since my first weekend in Qatar- I went to a camel race. 


Camel races in Qatar are held every Saturday, twice a day.  Once at 5am and then again at 3pm.  I don't have to tell you which time I attended.  The races take place outside of Doha and are not widely advertised in the city.  Many Qataris actually look down upon it.  When you first get to the race track, if you've never been before, it is really confusing as to what to do.  We were lucky enough to find an empty bus in the parking lot with some other 'westerners' in it- so we jumped in.  The bus was small, holding about 15 people.  It drove us around to the track. 


The track itself is about 6 miles long and dirt with metal railings on both sides to keep the camels in.  Outside of the dirt track, there are three pavement tracks that follow along the camels' track.  Two on one side for spectators to drive along and one on the other side for the owners to control their camels, while driving beside them.  Viewers and owners drive along in their large, white Land Rovers and follow the camels as they race.


Until recently the camels were ridden around the track by small orphan(or kidnapped) children controlling them- that has now, thank goodness, been banned.  The replacement jockey is a small robot that hooks onto the saddle of the camel.  It has a whip attached to it that is controlled by a remote that the owner has on the side of the track.  Depending on how fast the camel is running, the owner will speed up or slow down the whip.

The start of the race, before the camels are released.

And they're off!

The race begins when the gate is lifted.  Oversized cars rev their engines and screech their tires.  Our bus was off before we knew it.  Yala yala yala!  (Go, Fast, Hurry)  

For six miles we followed the camels as they galloped around the track.  If you see in the pictures above, the lane to the right was where the owners followed and controlled their camel's whip by remote.  Meanwhile our bus radio station was tuned into the announcer for the race, who yelled in Arabic as different camels took the lead.

At the end of the 6m race, the exhausted camels fight for the finish.  The winners are then taken to the side for photos with their owners and another race with a new set of camels begins almost immediately.  

After riding around the track on the bus for two races, we finally got off the bus and watched from the side lines of the start/finish. This was an experience that I will never forget.  I am not sure that I approve of the camel races and the whipping robots, but I think it is an interesting part of the culture and is something that everyone should see.

Oh- I was one of the only females in attendance at the race.  Not only was that uncomfortable, but as we had been to the beach earlier that morning, I forgot to pack leggings to go under my beach dress.  So here I was at the race, with an above-the knee dress and all men.  It was not what you would call appropriate, but I had driven all the way out to the track and didn't want to just sit in the car, while others watched the race.  I was also with all men- not sure that looked so good.  Unfortunately, let's just say the camels weren't the only ones getting attention at the race track that day.

Top three things to do in the desert

Recreational activities in Qatar are limited.  Besides eating and drinking, the next best thing is traveling into the desert.  No matter which direction you go from Doha, you will get to the desert in 45 minutes.  This is where you will find most of the local people too.   So while the city is sleeping on the weekends, the desert is wide awake.  So far I have found three activities that I would consider to be the best things to do in the desert.

1.   

        1.  Dune bashing

As one of the first things that I did when I came to Qatar, dune bashing is one of my favorites.  It is also a top choice on weekends for locals.  Dune bashing is what us country folk would call mud-slingin’….just without the mud and add sand.  I used to do my fair share of mud slingin’ in my young teenage days, so I know this activity quite well.  (Never in my car dad, always in some crazy boy’s truck!)  The secret to dune bashing is making sure you let enough air out of your tires so that you can drive easily on the sand.  As a Nissan Altima driver, I have never been the designated desert driver here in the country.  Usually the driver is someone with a large SUV, lots of horsepower, and balls.  (Just being honest)  The driver needs to be quite confident of him/her self and drive with full speed in order to make it up the steep dunes.  When reaching the top of the dunes it is important to slow down quickly for two reasons:  a) you never know who or what is coming up the other side and b) the other side may be a complete drop-off.  Going up and down and sideways on these desert dunes is exhilarating.  It is like a roller coaster without safety regulations.

        2.  Camping

Camping is also a fun desert activity.  Just be sure to bring lots of water!!  I have only been camping once so far, but I can’t wait to do it again.  Camping is another big thing for Qataris.  It wasn’t too long ago when most Qataris ‘camped’ 365 days a year.  Now they have huge tents with air-conditioning, electricity, sofas, and carpets out in the middle of the dessert for weekend family get togethers.  Ex-pat camping is a little different.  We do it with small tents, blankets, coolers, camp fires, and chairs.  (By the way, I bought a $10 one person tent in Qatar.  Can you believe that?)  Camping in the desert is nice because it gives you a chance to get out of the dusty city, relax, and see the stars.  It is also worth camping just to see the sun set over the dunes- amazing really.  The desert also gets really cold at night…so it is a good break from the heat.  Although, I have heard the cold nights do not exists in the hot summer months.  I guess I will soon see. No matter what season- as soon as 6am rolls around in the desert, you are wide awake and burning hot. 

3.       

        3.  Four wheeling

Oh the freedom of four wheeling.  This activity is for sure my favorite!  Four wheeling in the dessert is so different than four wheeling in the country side of NC.  Its wide open with no obstacles, only huge hills to go up and down.  Last weekend, some friends and I each rented four wheelers and rode into the dunes in the Mesaieed desert area of Qatar.  I have never really driven one of these things by myself, but I kept that a secret because I didn’t want anyone to say that I couldn’t go.  Heart racing as I climbed on, I fastened my helmet and gave her some gas.  Off I went!  Flying over those dunes like I actually knew what I was doing.  Though I about threw myself off one or five times, I was smiling ear to ear and having one of the best times that I have had in a really long time.  Luckily, the day we went it was cloudy and lightly raining so it was not too hot while we were out.  I can see why the young Qataris love it so much.  Its addicting.  I would go every weekend if I didn't value my pool side tanning time so much.  A girl's gotta have her bronze glow!  :)

Dates, the new black

Before coming here, I had always heard about dates being a Middle Eastern treat.  I would think to myself ‘what is so special about a date?  It’s just like a dried plum but not.’  Same, same, but different.  Ya?  Ok, sorry for the Indian joke.

In the US, I only had one way that I would eat dates….stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon- the American way.  Because we all know everything is better wrapped in bacon.  A few weeks after arriving, I began trying these Middle Eastern treats just plain, no cheese, no bacon. Fresh.

...mmm….Spectacular….better than chocolate….

Seriously, these dates are the new black.  Everywhere you go in the Middle East, there is some sort of date pastry or fresh dates.  Quality, nice dates are considered an essential luxury, if that makes sense.  My favorite place to buy gourmet dates is this store called Bateel. (http://www.bateel.ae/products-dates-fresh.html)  They are a global company, but their dates are fantastic.  Chocolate covered dates, dates with candied walnuts and pecans inside, almond filled dates, look at the website.  However, my favorite dates are the lighter colored dates.  They taste just like caramel and are a nice treat after a salty meal.  I have a big sweet tooth and usually eat a chocolate after a meal- but over the past few months dates have become the replacement.  And they are oh-so good.  Soft and chewy- mother nature’s candy.

I have even achieved the skill level of placing the whole date in my mouth and being able to eat the ‘meat’, while pushing the seed the other side and then spitting it out.  Raw talent I tell ya. 

I also enjoy date filled cookies- ma’amouls.  The outer crust is a shortbread mixture and the inner is pureed dates.  It’s an acquired taste I believe, some think it is too bland, but for me it’s perfect.  Not too sweet and melts in your mouth.  My favorite brand is made in Saudi Arabia, but sold in grocery stores across the Middle East.  I stock up every time I see them.

So yes, dates are the new black.  Who wants me to bring them dates home?  Place your orders now.

Diverting to Dubai

Last week I traveled to what I like to call the Manhattan of the Middle East- Dubai.  I went for a business trip but decided to stay the weekend so that I could explore the city.  The plane ride from Doha to Dubai is almost a joke.  You take off and before you know it you are landing.  Somewhere in between they TRY to serve a full meal, but it is more like 'Here- shove this food down your throat as quick as possible because we are about to land'.  The 45 minute flight is a trip that many take on a daily basis for commuting to and from work.

This was my second time in the city- although the first time was a whirlwind day trip back in November during my interview for my current position.  At that point- I was paying more attention to my first trip abroad and alone than I was taking in the city.  This time I paid close attention.

Dubai is one of the seven emirates of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and as most of you already know, it is known as the top vacationing and shopping spot of the Middle East.  I got off the plane and got a cab to the hotel; it was night and I was able to see the city at its finest.  Bright, colorful lights and fast cars on the freeway- Dubai is full of life and much much larger than my little Doha.  Dubai also has a public transportation system, unlike Doha, and has boarding stations around the city that resemble something out of Star Wars.  Large, silver, slug-like hubs. When morning arrived, the city was just as beautiful and striking as it was the night before.  Lots of green palm trees and grassy knolls in the midst of the tall sky touching towers.  I began to feel like a country girl gone to the BIG city!  From Doha to Dubai- there are too many differences to count.

My trip lasted for about five days- from good food to spectacular shopping, there was not a boring moment.  I wanted to go into the Burj Khalifa (currently the World's tallest building) but it was closed for maintenance- my luck and also a regular situation for the Middle East.  Since the height thrill was no longer an option, I filled my time with: dancing at a terrace bar overlooking the marina, attending a VIP beach party, riding a private row boat to dinner, and shopping, shopping, shopping.  I went to both the Mall of the Emirates (where the ski slope is) and the Dubai Mall (which is very close to the Burj Khalifa).  My Dubai Mall trip lasted from 11am to 7pm-  how that happened I am really not sure but the slimness of my wallet is proof that it actually happened.  By the end of my last day in the city- I was ready to go home....back to Doha.

Looking up at the Burj Khalifa

There is no way to cover Dubai in five days (maybe Doha), so I will definitely be back to the city again.  But I will have to admit, on my cab ride back to my apartment in Doha I felt a strange sense of home.  Doha has become my home away from home and as much as I complain about it, it is starting to hold a special place in my heart.  The past two months has flown by so fast that it took me leaving for a few days and returning to really understand my attachment to the small city.  I know that I don't want to live here for ever, but its kind of nice to call it home for now.  (Now don't you worry North Carolina-  I haven't forgotten you and cant wait to feel your cool grass between my toes)

Stuck in a roundabout

The transportation infrastructure in Doha is desperate for some attention.  As the population has grown rapidly over the past ten years, the amount of traffic on the roads has surpassed what the roads can actually handle. There is a critical issue with Doha traffic that is the root of all traffic problems in the city- it’s called the Doha roundabout.  These roundabouts are spread throughout the city in a fashion that is in no way logical, but instead feels like the clouds opened up and rained roundabouts across Doha.  They each have their own name:  TV roundabout, Sports roundabout, Crazy roundabout, Rainbow roundabout, Oryx roundabout, Oyster roundabout,…I could go on for days.  These names are used instead of street names.  You are constantly given directions by landmarks and roundabouts, never ‘Turn right on Martin Luther King St and then take a left when you get to the second traffic light’.  No- traffic life is not that simple here.

There are driving rules for these roundabouts too!  I learned these in my driving classes.  Why is it that I feel I am the only one who knows and obeys these rules?  As you approach the roundabout, get in the far right lane if you are turning right, middle lane if you are going straight, or left lane if you are going left or doing a U-turn.

Sheet of rules that I was given in driving school:

90% of the time, these roundabout ‘rules’ are not obeyed.  People in the far left lane merge across all lanes to exit whenever they feel like it and people in the far right lane do not always exit.  Please imagine what this looks like.  Do you see it?  Now imagine me getting stuck in one of these roundabouts…

This weekend as I approached one of the major roundabouts calmly and assertively, following the rules- I got stuck!  I wanted to turn left so I got into the far left, inside lane.  When I started to signal to exit, no one would let me out.  I angrily circled around, saying a few choice words during the process. Nope, same thing.  Circle again!  And again!  I had to go around THREE times before I could get out.  I seriously felt like I was in an episode of Seinfeld.  No exit for you!  Hilarious to an outsider, but detrimental to my inner driver-self. 

Moral of the story- buy a monster truck.

Lifestyles of the Rich and the Qatari: First Edition

One’s first impression of Qatar is a country that is a just tiny dot on the map bordered by the Persian Gulf.  When you look a little closer, you will see a country rich in oil and gas with one of the highest GDP per capita in the world and home to some of the most elaborate lifestyles one has ever witnessed- even Robin Leach would be shocked. 

(Disclaimer:  I am not saying the Qataris are bad people, I am simply describing the lifestyles that I have witnessed since arriving in the country.  I am titling this entry as ‘First Edition’ because I am sure, as the time passes, I will learn more and want to add to this section.)

There are around 1.6 million people living in this country and less than 20% of these are Qataris. The majority of the population is made up of ex-pats.

Oh, to be a Qatari.  One of the fabulous 20%.

Qatari people are paid by the government simply for being Qatari.  It’s kind of like your dad giving you a weekly allowance for behaving when you were a child.  Only this allowance is substantially larger and given to adults.  This large allowance allows the native people to live without a job, buy whatever they want, and live life with little responsibility and worry-free.  Their credit card debts are also paid by the government which allows them to make large purchases without hesitation.  This allowance also enables the people to live in very nice mansion-size houses, drive the most expensive cars, decorate themselves in diamonds, and wear only designer clothes underneath their black and white robes.

Being Qatari also gives you rights.  You have the right to:

• Have at least one live-in maid
• Drive as fast as you want to without obeying any speed limit
• Flash your headlights at anyone in your way until they move out of your way
• Pull up to any restaurant or shop, honk your horn and the employees will come outside to you and take your order/show you their products.  You can then order while sitting in your over air-conditioned SUV, receive your order, and then throw your trash on the ground and drive away.  Do not worry, the employees will pick up your trash.
• Talk down to any nationality that you feel is inferior to yours by not allowing them to stand in groups larger than three or denying them entry into malls.  If they are sitting in a chair that you want to sit in, just wave your hand and they will get up.
• Have a special plush section for sitting, drinking coffee, and smoking most everywhere you go.
• Never be at fault in any car accident.
• Always be right. 

It’s quite nice to be Qatari.  Living the dream, right?  No worries, no responsibilities, and money is just like monopoly money.  It’s not real.

Robin Leach, please come to visit.