Stuck in a roundabout

The transportation infrastructure in Doha is desperate for some attention.  As the population has grown rapidly over the past ten years, the amount of traffic on the roads has surpassed what the roads can actually handle. There is a critical issue with Doha traffic that is the root of all traffic problems in the city- it’s called the Doha roundabout.  These roundabouts are spread throughout the city in a fashion that is in no way logical, but instead feels like the clouds opened up and rained roundabouts across Doha.  They each have their own name:  TV roundabout, Sports roundabout, Crazy roundabout, Rainbow roundabout, Oryx roundabout, Oyster roundabout,…I could go on for days.  These names are used instead of street names.  You are constantly given directions by landmarks and roundabouts, never ‘Turn right on Martin Luther King St and then take a left when you get to the second traffic light’.  No- traffic life is not that simple here.

There are driving rules for these roundabouts too!  I learned these in my driving classes.  Why is it that I feel I am the only one who knows and obeys these rules?  As you approach the roundabout, get in the far right lane if you are turning right, middle lane if you are going straight, or left lane if you are going left or doing a U-turn.

Sheet of rules that I was given in driving school:

90% of the time, these roundabout ‘rules’ are not obeyed.  People in the far left lane merge across all lanes to exit whenever they feel like it and people in the far right lane do not always exit.  Please imagine what this looks like.  Do you see it?  Now imagine me getting stuck in one of these roundabouts…

This weekend as I approached one of the major roundabouts calmly and assertively, following the rules- I got stuck!  I wanted to turn left so I got into the far left, inside lane.  When I started to signal to exit, no one would let me out.  I angrily circled around, saying a few choice words during the process. Nope, same thing.  Circle again!  And again!  I had to go around THREE times before I could get out.  I seriously felt like I was in an episode of Seinfeld.  No exit for you!  Hilarious to an outsider, but detrimental to my inner driver-self. 

Moral of the story- buy a monster truck.

Lifestyles of the Rich and the Qatari: First Edition

One’s first impression of Qatar is a country that is a just tiny dot on the map bordered by the Persian Gulf.  When you look a little closer, you will see a country rich in oil and gas with one of the highest GDP per capita in the world and home to some of the most elaborate lifestyles one has ever witnessed- even Robin Leach would be shocked. 

(Disclaimer:  I am not saying the Qataris are bad people, I am simply describing the lifestyles that I have witnessed since arriving in the country.  I am titling this entry as ‘First Edition’ because I am sure, as the time passes, I will learn more and want to add to this section.)

There are around 1.6 million people living in this country and less than 20% of these are Qataris. The majority of the population is made up of ex-pats.

Oh, to be a Qatari.  One of the fabulous 20%.

Qatari people are paid by the government simply for being Qatari.  It’s kind of like your dad giving you a weekly allowance for behaving when you were a child.  Only this allowance is substantially larger and given to adults.  This large allowance allows the native people to live without a job, buy whatever they want, and live life with little responsibility and worry-free.  Their credit card debts are also paid by the government which allows them to make large purchases without hesitation.  This allowance also enables the people to live in very nice mansion-size houses, drive the most expensive cars, decorate themselves in diamonds, and wear only designer clothes underneath their black and white robes.

Being Qatari also gives you rights.  You have the right to:

• Have at least one live-in maid
• Drive as fast as you want to without obeying any speed limit
• Flash your headlights at anyone in your way until they move out of your way
• Pull up to any restaurant or shop, honk your horn and the employees will come outside to you and take your order/show you their products.  You can then order while sitting in your over air-conditioned SUV, receive your order, and then throw your trash on the ground and drive away.  Do not worry, the employees will pick up your trash.
• Talk down to any nationality that you feel is inferior to yours by not allowing them to stand in groups larger than three or denying them entry into malls.  If they are sitting in a chair that you want to sit in, just wave your hand and they will get up.
• Have a special plush section for sitting, drinking coffee, and smoking most everywhere you go.
• Never be at fault in any car accident.
• Always be right. 

It’s quite nice to be Qatari.  Living the dream, right?  No worries, no responsibilities, and money is just like monopoly money.  It’s not real.

Robin Leach, please come to visit.

America in Doha?

Working for a global company can really open your eyes.  For my company, Qatar is a melting pot of nationalities.  In our office, we have about 125 employees and over 25 nationalities.  I am the only American.  Please push that thought aside that most of you are currently thinking, "Oh no.  Sarah is representing America."  Trust me, I am making you all proud.

As proof of this, I will tell you of my task this weekend.  Since I have arrived, I have been attending weekend cookouts hosted by various co-workers and their spouses.  The type of food consumed at each of these has depended on the nationality of the hosts.  As most people have taken their turn, it soon became obvious that my turn was approaching.  Considering the closet apartment that I live in, a German co-worker offered his home as the location for my 'American' barbecue.  Following my consent, a shocking email was sent out by the German inviting not just a few but 10 men from the office and their wives to 'Sarah's Famous BBQ Rib cookout'.  The pressure was on:

• Nearly 20 people were going to be attending.
• I'd never cooked ribs in my life.  (Though, I have seen people cook them.)
• Pork ribs are forbidden in the country.  So we would be eating beef ribs.  You've got to be quite the pro to smuggle pork across airport security here.

As my big day approached, I began to draft up the American menu.  (Looking back on it, I really only made southern food.  Sorry northerners, I left you out.  I can make philly cheesesteaks and pizza another time.)  Though I was tempted to make PB&J triangles for appetizers, I resisted this urge.  Now back to the menu:  beef ribs, cole slaw, twice baked potatoes, and baked beans.  This menu was made only after the German eliminated my other options:  sweet potato pie, mac n' cheese, cornbread, sweet tea, and banana pudding.  I went grocery shopping mid-week just to make sure I could get all of the ingredients that I needed.  We had to go to three different stores just to get the beef ribs and I had to make a trip to Mega Mart to get the assortment of beans.  (Mega Mart is a grocery store worshiped by all Americans here because it offers American brands...you only have to pay one month's salary in exchange for a box of your favorite cereal.  Seriously though, one small box of cornflakes is $12 USD)

Cookout day arrived and I began cooking around 3pm.  (Yes mom, I washed my hands first!)  Around 4pm, guests began arriving- all just in time to see me pouring in the butter, milk, cheese, and sour cream into the twice baked potatoes.  One lady asked me if this was why all Americans were so big!  I just laughed and hoped she wasn't staring at the back of my chubby arms.  Cooking the American meal really made me feel home away from home.  I was smiling ear to ear and taking in all of the familiar aromas of my childhood.  Though many asked to help me in the kitchen, I turned down the help and enjoyed the time alone making the dishes.

Dinner was finally ready.  Guests for the dinner included:  South Africans, Norwegians, Germans, and Kiwis (New Zealanders).  Everyone sat down at the table, gave a toast to America, and began passing the food around.  It wasn't long before everyone began commenting on how great everything tasted.  I think their favorite part was the baked beans, they couldn't get enough of them!  As I looked around the table, I couldn't help but smile and think that all of these different nationalities were sitting at one table, speaking one language, and enjoying the same meal.  It was a really good moment.  A greater appreciation for American food was reached at that dinner table.  Jokes were even made about renting me out for their own barbecues.

The American barbecue was a success.  I'm sure this will not be the only American meal that I prepare for others while here, but I don't mind. It is comforting to know and realize, that home is just a meal away.

A food lover's paradise

Anyone who knows me, knows I love food- especially spicy foods.  In Doha, there is food from almost every country...Egypt, Lebanon, Italy, India, Turkey, Thailand, France, UK, China, Japan, Austraila, New Zeland, South Africa, Germany and even America.  From hummus to souffle, your tastebuds can enjoy flavors of the world at a price you can afford.

Lebanese food seems to be the most 'local' if you had to specify a type of food that is central to Qatar.  Everywhere you go you will find hummus,  unleven bread, and shawarma.  Shawarma is my new favorite.  This is basically grilled meat of your choice (chicken/beef/lamb) with lettuce, tomato, and a garlic yogurt sauce wrapped up in a thin piece of arabic bread.  Its cheap, available everywhere, and hits the spot.  There is a place right next to my office that prepares shawarmas in the window when you order.  The chef has a huge grill that holds up two metal posts that are wrapped in meat- one chicken, one lamb.  These posts rotate to cook the meat evenly and when an order is placed the chef shaves off the meat, lets it fall to the grill where it browns and warms up, and then places it in the wrap with all of the yummy yogurt sauce.  The next step is wrapping it in a thin waxy paper over and over again...making it hard to get into quickly for starving food junkies like me.  Each time I order one, it always feels that I will never get the paper off and I have to do it as fast as possible or else the shwarma will disappear.  Believe it or not these shawarmas are only 5 Qatari Riyals each, which is about $1.50 in the US.  Needless to say, this is part of my diet atleast twice a week.
 

Preparing shawarma

Seafood is also really, really fresh here and also quite tasty.  Hammour would be considered the most popular local fish.  Its a white fish and you can find it in nearly every restaurant.  (Although, I dont see what is so special about it)  One of my favorite fish, that I have had here, has been king fish.  Regardless of the fish you fancy, it is all prepared and grilled to perfection here and is often served with a variety of freshly grilled vegetables, rice, and a simple salad with a light vinaigrette dressing.  If ordered at the right restaurant, a plate that would cost you $25-35 in the US is only about $10-15 here.

Let it be stated that as cheap as the food I have found is, there is also very expensive food at all of the four star hotels.  (which is also the only place you can drink and dine) To give you a ballpark figure, last weekend I spent over $150 on dinner for just me!  It was well worth it though and the food was mouth watering...tuna tartare with avocado cream, salt & pepper prawns served over grilled pineapple, chicken pad thai, and a lemon coconut salmon that melted in my mouth.  (I split this with a friend...I could never eat all of this myself)  Oh yea, there might have been a half a bottle of wine and a mojito or two on that same ticket.  I justified this meal as a celebration for getting my Qatari driver's license.

Indian food can also be found everywhere here.  Lucky me- I love spices and Indian food is defined by the spicy addiction that follows the first bite.  For American food, there are many American chains here such as: Applebee's, TGIFridays, Dunkin Doughnuts, Starbucks, Macaroni Grill, KFC, McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Papa Johns....(the list goes on, please dont make me continue)  I have also found a 'mom & pops' type of American restaurant called "Ric's Kountry Kitchen" that serves cheeseburgers, sweet tea, and plays Garth Brooks and Kenny Chesney on repeat to create that oh-so American atmosphere.  The greasy juices from the cheeseburger and fries are just like Dorthy's red slippers- they bring me right back home.  One rule of thumb I have learned to go by here is, stick with the food that is from the country the restaurant specializes in.  I ordered a pepperoni calzone from a Lebanese restaurant the other week...what I got was a folded piece of dough with cheese and a chopped up hotdog.  I love hotdogs, just not in my Italian cuisine.

Food, food, food...Doha could very well be a food lover's paradise.  It is also known for the 'Doha Dozen'...much like the common 'Freshman Fifteen'.  Many come without it, and leave with it.  Lets hope I can manage to not do the same.  My apartment has a gym on the bottom floor, so I have no excuses.